A Dish of Cockles Or Whelks With a Pint of Beer in Folkestone

There is much the world knows about the British,in his book that you could see the smugglers selling
they have a strange sense of humour, the weathercontraband openly on the beach. Nearby is the place
is unpredictable, if you stand in one place for too longwhere Rothschild paid Folkestone smugglers to
you will experience all four seasons in less thandeliver gold to his family in France who then passed it
fifteen minutes. The food is terrible, theon to their relatives in Spain to pay the British army
accommodation worse, the beer is terrible and theyfighting Napoleon. However, don not tarry too long,
have no culture. How wrong can you get, if asmuggling in Folkestone continued into the 1980s with
strange sense of humour, terrible food, awful beer,tobacco, wines and spirits being carried through the
rotten hotels and weather is not culture what is?harbour to supplement a meagre wage and may still
If you come to Folkestone and choose the rightbe practiced today.
places, you can experience all that and more. You canTake a turn around the seafood stalls, pick a dish of
catch a train from Charing Cross Station and be inprawns or cockles or even jellied eels, and buy a pint
Folkestone in an hour and twenty minutes, you mayof bitter beer from the nearby pub. There is an art
experience the culture of late running trains, delaysto drinking English beer, do not sip as it will taste too
because a leaf has fallen on the line or a fuse hasbitter, take a long slow draft on the back of the
blown and the signals do not work. Nevertheless,tongue and swallow and you will discover why the
what do you care, you are on holiday.English have kept this fine nectar to themselves for
If you plan your trip at the right time you can makeso long.
the journey on a 1950s steam train, possibly theWhen you have finished your beer and seafood ask
Golden Arrow.the landlady for directions to the Old High Street.
Arrive at eleven o'clock in the morning. The sea fogTake a slow stroll up the steep hill, the narrowest
has usually gone out with the tide, the rain clouds arepublic road still open to traffic in England. Look in the
not due for at least another two hours and the sunart galleries and watch an artist paint a picture. When
is breaking through the cloud. Get out the train atyou arrive at the top of the hill turn left and there is
Folkestone Central Station, grab a cab and ask fora pub, the Guildhall, or a little further to the British
the Fish Market.Lion where Dickens is said to have written one of his
Folkestone Harbour is a working harbour with smallmany books. Make a choice from one of the many
inshore fishing fleet and the occasional small cargoselections of real beer, maybe the seafood was
ship, take a walk along the harbour wall and smell theinsufficient so have a light lunch and at about four
air, this was once a port that had a history ofo'clock call a cab and return to the Central Station.
smuggling that goes back nearly 300 years. BeneathAs you travel home or to your hotel you may think
your feet are long lost smugglers tunnels wherethat was not a bad day out, if you are an overseas
French contraband was carried to all corners of thevisitor you will have seen a side of England and its
town including the church?culture that none of your fellow countrymen will have
In 1860, the headmaster of a local school complainedexperienced.