Brew Pubs Today: The Revival Of A Proud American Tradition

ber the one-on-every corner dimly lit brew pub orbeer is once again brewed on the premises or in
tavern, beer-soaked carpeting and Joe the Bartender,partnership with microbreweries, twinned with pubs in
a long row of customers with their glasses of waterywhich to serve their products, brew pubs have taken
mass-produced beer, all staring at a flickeringnew pride, not only in the beverages they create but
television? Versions of these drinking establishmentsalso in the brew pub venue itself. No longer supplied
certainly still exist but their heyday as the gatheringby wholesalers of mass-produced products, these are
place of choice is over. In fact this rather depressinggenerally owner-operated businesses with a
era was only a hiatus in America’s rich brewreputation to protect.
pub history.The European beer garden was and is an oasis in
In 1634 the Puritans licensed the first brew pub inworking life, a neighborhood gathering focal point
New England with ale brewed on the premises. Theiroffering more than just a place to drink beer. This
idea was to steer drinkers away from the higherhealthy, social atmosphere is reflected in the modern
alcohol content of rum and whiskey. During thisbrew pub. Polished mirrors, exposed beams, glasses
period, they also passed legislation ensuring theand bottles proudly displayed, revolving ceiling fans,
quality of the product. This tradition of local beerand menus full of imaginative twists on traditional pub
brewing paired with brewing excellence continued untilfare – the modern brew pub is a showcase
the time of prohibition in the 1920’s. Europeanfor the brewery’s products.
immigrants were the driving force behind thisIf you find yourself in the position of a stranger in a
tradition, not only in transporting time-honored recipesstrange town, dropping in to your neighborhood brew
and methods, but also in flavoring the atmosphere ofpub might be the answer. Here is a social setting ideal
their taverns with the customs and décor offor meeting the locals, playing a game of darts and
their home countries. The Dutch and the English, thensampling fine quality beers, ales and ciders. If you are
the Germans in the 19th century brought the familytraveling with the family, by-pass the fast food
atmosphere of the old world to their adopted land.chains and seek out the local brew pub. Many are
Post-prohibition, the traditions and style of immigrantfamily run and family friendly, reasonably priced with
brewing were disappearing. By the end of thean emphasis on responsible enjoyment, and with
1970’s only light lager was selling in anyfood a cut above the cardboard box brigade.
significant volume, driven by big business marketingOperating as restaurants, brew pubs rarely have an
campaigns. At that point there were only 44age restriction.
breweries in the United States. Yet a movement wasSome of you may remember George
on the way that would reverse this trend.Orwell’s famous review of his favorite public
In the 1970’s people were traveling in greathouse, “The Moon under Water”.
numbers. It was the in thing to do and Europe wasThough completely fictional, he describes with
the inexpensive destination. These travelers returnedaffection the ten best qualities of the place, from the
to America with a taste for real beer and anornamental mirrors behind the bar to the sound of
appreciation of quaffing in agreeable, charmingchildren’s laughter. Says Mr. Orwell, “If
surroundings. With a sneer of disapproval at the stateyou are asked why you favour a particular public
of watering holes in their native land, many openedhouse, it would seem natural to put the beer first,
their own breweries and brew pubs in the Europeanbut the thing that most appeals to me about
style. In 1982 U.S. legislation finally allowed food to be“The Moon under Water” is what
served in breweries and the brew pub waspeople call its “atmosphere”. Given the
‘reborn’.quality and ambience of today’s brew pubs, I
Our brew pubs today represent a resurgence ofbelieve George would be pleased.
tradition and ambience reminiscent of earlier times. As