Nice France, Dining - Restaurants in Nice

Cheap Car Rental Nicestarter (entree), then a main course (plat principal),
Restaurants in Nice range from cheap and cheerful tothen a pudding (dessert). It could also be a starter
Michelin-starred. If your hotel or apartment is in theand a main OR a main and a pudding plus a glass of
centre of Nice or Old Town, you will have a widewine. There are a few 2-course menus on offer too,
choice of where to eat in Nice all within walkingusually starter plus main OR main plus pudding, I've
distance, not including the hundreds of fast-foodseen some offering a quarter pichet of wine instead
cafes and bars and numerous boulangeries.of a pudding. there's so many combinations, it pays
Most of the restaurants listed have been reviewed into have a good look around and often by ordering
detail on my pages. For individual reviews, please clicktwo different sets of combinations from the same
on the photos or 'more info' or use the dropdownrestaurant you can feed 2 adults and a child for the
menu on the left.price of just 2 set menu.
For restaurant locations, use - enter the road name,We have done this quite successfully, the daughter
'Nice' and 'France' for a good, printable map. A roadhas had my starter and pudding, I've just had a main
number will pinpoint the restaurant precisely.course and the husband has had a starter and main
The restaurants we return to every time are (in noand the wine option instead of pudding, so for the
order) La Tapenade, Chez Palmyre, Bar de la Bourse,cost of two set menus plus the carafe d'eau we've
Chez Juliette, La Grange, Rene Socca, La Barqueall been fed and watered. The french verb for
Bleue and La Colombe d'Or (St Paul de Vence). If wesharing is partager. Sometimes with a child, you can
could brook the expense, I should like to return to Laask for a plate, une assiete, and say 'ont partage' -
Petite Maison, Le Comptoir, Le Tire Bouchon and my'we are sharing'
new favourite, Jouni de la Reserve. I have so manyIf you do want the set 2 or 3 course 'menu' or
places I haven't written about yet with an equal'formule', make sure the waiter knows this and order
number on my to-do list.all the courses at the beginning, including the pudding
I have been writing up my restaurant tips in sinceif you can cope with this, as we have been charged
September 2003 so expect some changes likeinvididually for items as though they were 'a la carte'
increased prices; I have made a few amendments,and have paid a lot more, especially as we tend to
not all.share out two formules between the three of us.
Most of my tips are based on restaurants asThe words 'a volonte' on the menu mean 'eat as
opposed to fast-food kiosks and boulangeries. I willmuch as you want' ie you can keep re-ordering the
be recommending these places in due course - theysame dish at no extra cost. One of the restaurants
often provide the freshest food and the best price -on the far side of Nice Port offers mussels a volonte.
superb for picnics.Also, on the Cours Saleya, the restaurant Bistro
There is a free guide to the restaurants in Nice fromRomain offers carpaccio of beef or salmon a volonte.
theCarpaccio is thin-sliced raw meat or fish, usually
Tourist Office They can send it to your homeserved drizzed with plenty of olive oil and sometimes
address before your trip to Nice. Not everyparmesan shavings too.
restaurant is listed, but it gives you a good start withBy the way, something else I've noticed. I love the
addresses and telephone numbers; ask for the freeNicoise Salads but they often appear on the menus
map too.as an 'entree' or starter. I've been worried about
I am always on the look-out for great places to eatchoosing it for my main course as I used to think it
in Nice, especially if they are close to my studio iemay be rather small. This has never been a problem,
within walking distance of the Port area. Please emailI have ordered these entree salads at many
me your recommendations - I'm after good qualitydifferent restaurants now and, so far, they have all
AND value. Better still, join the website - it's free andeasily been main-course sized. So if you see
add your tips for everyone to share.something on the entree list that you would like by
Tips for eating in restaurantsitself for your main course, just order it, I'm sure it
Good idea to book in advance, the day before orwill be enough. It also explained to me why some of
even the same morning will probably do, either pop inthe entrees seemed so high in price; they really are
or telephone.main-course sized portions.
It's an early start for lunch - get seated at 12 noon,If one person orders an entree or starter as their
12:30pm at the latest to get the restaurant of yourmain course and another person orders a main
choice but don't expect to eat before 7.30 - 8 pm incourse, make sure your waiter knows to serve both
the evenings.at the same time or you will take turns to watch
Address the waiter/waitress as 'Monsieur' oreach other eat. We have been caught out this way a
'Madame', never 'Garcon' - this is now out of datecouple of times. The French for 'together' is
and considered very impolite. Start off with'ensemble'.
'Excusez-moi' or 's'il vous plait' to attract attention.If you see a pudding you fancy, it is ok to reserve it
Ordering a carafe d'eau gets you free tap water -at the start of the meal - the popular puddings
they prefer (obviously) to sell you a bottle of water-disappear rapidly so have a look in the display counter
usually the sparkling Badoit - we've paid up to 3,50if you get the chance.
euros for half a bottle. If you want the free water,Don't expect a children's menu, although I have
ask very clearly for the carafe, if you just ask fornoticed an increase in restaurants offering them and
water, you'll be given a choice of fizzy 'gaz' or stillmany restaurants won't serve half-portions for
'sans gaz' and then you will feel too intimidated tochildren, although they are usually happy enough to
then ask for the free carafe, so get the words outgive a empty plate so that a child can share bits
first!from the adult. Don't forget you nearly always get a
Some restaurants will offer an aperitif first, so unlessbasket of French bread with every meal so this, plus
you want pre-meal drinks, often a 'kir' (white wineperhaps an extra plate of chips is enough for two
and cassis) be ready to say no, just the menu please.adults sharing their food with a child.
Alternatively, order your wine to come straightIn Nice there will be something a child will like - pasta
away, but if the service is slow, you may end upand pizza is always a good bet. Be careful ordering a
ordering a second bottle.burger though as you will need to specify how you
A cheap way to order glugging wine is to order alike it cooked or it will arrive quite pink in the middle.
pitchet - this is a jug with the local house wine, canMy daughter will eat pink beef but other children may
often be good.A pichet is a litre, half a pitchet is halfbe put off.
a litre, etc.Don't be fooled by the word 'pate' on the menus, it
We have found beer to be extremely expensive inmeans pasta and not what I think of as pate - thick
Nice, up to 8 euros a glass. I would stick to thefatty meat paste. I think there may be a crucial
house wine and a carafe of water to get the bestaccent or two missing, but you get the idea.
value from restaurants. Buy beer from the localThe french for medium is 'a point' , 'bien-cuit' is well
supermarket and enjoy it at your hotel or apartmentdone or 'pas bien cuit' - NOT well done should sort
before you head off to a restaurant.out a steak. 'Bleu' or 'saignant' means still mooing (or
When you buy beer in a restaurant, there areneighing)
different ways to order it, often you ask for a'service compris' sometimes written at the bottton of
'pression' which is draught beer, either athe bill as 'sc' - now on all menus (I think it is
'demi-pression'- half a litre or a 'formidable' - a litre,compulsory now) means service, at 17.5%, is included.
the name says it all. Or, order bottled beer by brand.We usually still leave a tip, but not as much as we
What you might consider to be the menu ie the listused to and certainly not the usual 10-15% you might
of food is called 'La Carte' and not Le Menu. Le Menuadd to a UK restaurant bill. Really, an acceptable tip is
refers to a set-price meal of two or three,the change in your pocket up to about 1 or 2 euros.
sometimes 4 courses. This is also known as theFor exceptionally poor service, leaving just 1 cent as
'formule'. A daily special, the 'plat du jour' or dish ofa tip is more effective than no tip! If you have
the day may be chalked up somewhere. Theexceptional service, then leave whatever you want.
'formule' or 'menu' with or without the 'plat du jour'Put any extra tip on the tray with the bill and not
will be displayed with the ordinary Carte, often on adirectly to the waiter which would be considered a
separate piece of paper or chalked up somewhere.bit vulgar.
Ask, if you don't see it as it often gives the bestA coffee after a meal will always be an espresso
value, certainly much cheaper than ordering a la carte.unless you specify otherwise. I've recently started
The plat du jour will be freshly made and the bestasking for a cafe 'americain' which is an espresso
item to order; this is often as good a way as anytopped up with hot water, the same price
when choosing a restaurant; when you're strolling(USUALLY, but I have been caught out a couple of
past a group of restaurants, just go for whatevertimes) but lasts a bit longer. Also called a 'cafe
plat du jour takes your fancy.allonge'. Espressos seem to cost between 1,50 - 2,30
Usually the formule or menu will give a choice of 2 oreuros,once you start on Cappucinos, the prices start
3 items for each course so you can usually putto creep up, expect to pay around 4- 5 euros.
together something you'll like. Sometimes a coffee orNon-smokers (like us). All I can say is, try and sit
a glass of wine or a drink ('boisson') will be part ofoutside. You will be in the minority and deeply
the formule or set-price menu sometimes as anunpopular if you make a fuss or expect a
alternative to a pudding. For example, a typicalnon-smoking section. I know this is the cowardly way
3-course menu may offer a Salade Nicoise or Beignetout but who wants to antagonise the staff before a
Sardines (battered sardines) as a first course ormeal?
entree, then a choice of gnocchi and daube (ItalianWe have noticed an increase in the number of
dumplings and stew), or Spagetti Bolognaise orwandering musicians, particularly near the touristy
moules frite (chips and mussels) as a second or mainrestaurants in the Old Town. They start playing near
course - plat principal and then ice-cream, cremeyou, and believe me after a couple of nights, you
caramel or the patisserie maison (cake or pastry ofknow the repertoire and order of play. You are then
the day) as the third course or pudding - dessert.asked for money. It's up to you, give if you want, I
This will cost on average between 12 and 20 eurosdo sometimes. I never buy from the hawkers who
per head for the 3 courses at most of the touristyplant cigarette lighters and other items on your table
restaurants in and around the Old Town.then come back to close the sale. There are also
It's worth having a good look around at the varioustumblers and beggers, if you want to avoid all this
set courses on offer, not only is it the best value,then eat inside the restaurant or go to the local off
you can aften find a combination that suits, forthe tourist track restaurants instead.
example, a 3-course menu for 12 euros could be a