The River Wharfe

This most picturesque of North Yorkshire rivers hasthe riverside settlements also changes, growing
its source on the moors above Langstrothdale Chase.bigger and more industrial as the Wharfe moves
Whilst not the longest of rivers nevertheless itclose to Leeds and Bradford. But first the river
encompasses a vast range of scenery and riverpasses the village of Addingham famous for its
states, from upland stream to a tidal river close to itschurch and the nearby suspension bridge before
confluence with the River Ouse near Cawood.passing through the first town in it course, i.e. the
Langstrothdale is the steep sided upland valley of thetown of Ilkley. High above the river lie the moors
River Wharfe. At this point the river has a limestonemade famous in the Yorkshire song about a man
bed and can vary considerably between being inwho dies of a head cold from "courting" his girlfriend
spate with full flow and being almost dry in thewithout a hat.
summer months. The valley sides are littered with"On Ilkla moor bar t'at" rings out in many a coach
limestone caves, small waterfalls and of course thereturning from a football match or a trip to the
drystone walls and sheep so characteristic of uplandseaside.
Yorkshire.Ilkley itself is a grand little town with many fine
The valley is furnished with a narrow but veryrestaurants and shops and boasts fine fishing for
serviceable road which for much of its length istrout from the river. I, myself, have had the pleasure
unfenced allowing complete access to theof some great examples provided by Lord Durno
greensward which flanks the crystal clear stream. Inwho was always keen on fly fishing in the Wharfe.
summer this is a very popular spot for a day withThe town was also the birthplace of one of
the children, a riverside picnic or just a stop for aYorkshire's most popular current personalities, TV
quiet cup of tea at the side of the car.presenter, author and gardener Alan Titchmarsh.
Further down the valley at Hubberholme the fledglingNext along the river come Burley in Wharfedale and
River Wharfe is joined by Cray beck and this marksthen the market town of Otley with its old mill
the start of Upper Wharfedale. Hubberholme is abuildings and riverside parks. The town is bustling
small hamlet boasting a superb parish church, restingwithout being overwhelming and you hardly notice
place of J.B. Priestley which also sports hand carvedthe overflying aircraft on their way to or from the
oak pews from Robert Thompson - the mousemannearby Leeds Bradford airport. Locally the town is
of Kilburn. At this point the character of the rivermost well known for the wild uplands known as
changes, the valley is flatter and the river calmer,Otley Chevin.
deeper and less changeable. The valley has alsoNow the river returns briefly to the open spaces of a
opened out to form the classic flat bottom glacierfarming valley before passing out of the dale and into
formed valley with the low level fields, steep sides,the Vale of York, entering the town of Tadcaster.
dry stone walls and field barns so typical of theHere at Tadcaster the river has for years provided
Yorkshire Dales.both transport and raw material for the brewing
Upper Wharefedale also contains a number ofindustry. The town is still home to several major
wonderful villages, packed with amenities,breweries, from the huge John Smith complex to the
accommodation and food and drink establishments. Asmaller but still very popular Samuel Smith brewery.
great example is the Buck Inn at Buckden whichThe story of these two breweries both originally
provides great rooms, superb food, great Yorkshireowned by the Smith family, descendants of the
ale or simply a great cup of Yorkshire tea.original Samuel Smith - a butcher from Meanwood in
Other equally beautiful and popular villages includeLeeds - reads like a historical epic with family fall outs
Kettlewell, Grassington and Appletreewick.and splits. The two breweries continue to exist side
Towards the southern end of the valley the riverby side although only the Samuel Smith brewery
enters woods on the estate of the Duke ofremains independent.
Devonshire and hidden in these woods is one of theBelow Tadcaster the river flows through several
most dramatic features of the river. At The Strid themore settlements, some with very nordic names like
whole flow of the river is compressed into a deepUlleskelf or Ozendyke. Around this area the river also
and rocky channel less than 2 metres wide. Thebecomes tidal with the twice daily rise and fall of the
resulting roaring torrent is full of strong downwardwaters flowing from or back into the much larger
currents and underwater overhangs to trap andRiver Ouse which has flowed down from York.
drown the unwary. Over the years there have beenThe river Wharfe finally joins the Ouse just above
many casualties including the medieval Boy ofthe urban village of Cawood - famous locally for its
Egremond who was later immortalised in the poemswing bridge which seems to break down with
by Wordsworth.depressing regularity. Cawood is also famous as the
Just downstream the river passes by the gloriousplace where Cardinal Wolsey was arrested by the
remains of Bolton Abbey. With the ruins of theEarl of Northumberland and taken south to stand trial
priory, over 80 miles of footpaths, 30,000 acres offor treason against Henry VIII. He was, however,
beautiful countryside and a plethora of tea shops,never to reach London; falling ill at Leicester and
pubs and restaurants this is quite simply a great placeeventually dying of his illness.
for a family day out. A gem at the heart of theThe waters of the River Wharfe now mingle with
Yorkshire Dales.those of the Ouse and continue south east to
Now the river changes again, the valley broadens outbecome the Humber Estuary below Selby and finally
and the river is fuller and more mature. The nature ofto flow into the North Sea east of Kingston upon Hull.