| As part of a recent eastern state swing, we | | | | whites, and sparkling wines. We enjoyed the Bianca, |
| discovered abundant clusters of wineries and wine | | | | a semi dry white, and the richly flavored Burgundy. |
| trails all along the southern and eastern boundary of | | | | We also bought a bottle of Penn Shore Champagne, |
| Lake Erie, from Ohio to New York. Along the way, a | | | | and wish we'd bought more. Dry but not too dry, |
| small area of Pennsylvania awaits, offering the wine | | | | and perfectly carbonated, we thought it was far |
| traveler a chance to visit some of the Keystone | | | | better than many imported champagnes. |
| State's most prominent wineries. This area is part of | | | | Presque Isle Wine Cellars is another Pennsylvania |
| the Chautauqua Lake Erie Wine Trail, one of 11 wine | | | | veteran, having opened their doors in 1968. Wine |
| trails encompassing Pennsylvania wineries. | | | | making is just part of the business here, as Presque |
| Like most states in this general geographic area, | | | | Isle also is well known as a wine supply and grape |
| Pennsylvania has a long history of grape growing and | | | | juice operation. |
| wine making. At present, the state ranks fourth | | | | When you visit, try the Falling Waters Sparkling Wine |
| nationally in grape growing and eighth for overall wine | | | | for a real taste of this area's grapes. It's a sparkling |
| production. As you might expect, there are plenty of | | | | white, with a pleasant fruity finish. Not to be outdone |
| Pennsylvania wineries to explore, with the state's | | | | is the Freeport Red, which practically explodes with |
| varied topography offering many distinct types of | | | | rich berry flavor and aroma. Finally, we recommend |
| grapes and wines. | | | | the Reflections of Lake Erie White, a blend of |
| Erie: Pennsylvania's Great Lake Port City | | | | Riesling, Vidal, and Cayuga. |
| Fresh off a highly enjoyable stay in Buffalo and | | | | Approaching mid-late afternoon, it was back to Erie |
| Niagara Falls, we hopped on I-90 for the short 90 | | | | for a sweet treat and a visit to another Erie original, |
| mile drive over the border to Erie, Pennsylvania's only | | | | Romolo Chocolates. This local chocolate manufacturer |
| Great Lake port city. | | | | and retail facility is renowned for their outstanding |
| We'd last been to Erie in the late 1980's, and the | | | | chocolates. Spend some time here and buy a box or |
| change is dramatic and readily evident. The | | | | two ... chocolate and wine are great companions! |
| harborfront, at one time home to railyards and heavy | | | | An Evening In Erie |
| industry, is now a welcoming destination, blending | | | | For dinner, it was back downtown for a stop at the |
| nicely with the diverse and eclectic downtown area. | | | | BrewErie at Union Station, located on 14th Street one |
| Erie has become a destination for several reasons. | | | | block west of State. Housed in an historic train |
| This small city, population just over 100,000, is | | | | station, the BrewErie is a perfect place to enjoy local |
| located at the intersection of two major interstates. | | | | beer and approachable fresh cuisine. Entrees are |
| Almost directly between Buffalo and Cleveland, Erie | | | | served with a side salad and spent grain muffins from |
| offers the amenities of a big city with the ease of | | | | the brewing operation. Try the Union Station Platter, |
| navigation of a smaller town. | | | | a combination of corned beef, beer brats, and ale |
| And of course, there's the harbor and the tempering | | | | marinated steak. Yum and then some! |
| effects of Lake Erie, a Great Lake that has sprung | | | | With daylight still with us and a great meal to work |
| back to life in recent decades. The very scenic | | | | off, a stroll was in order. State Street fits the bill! |
| Presque Isle State Park juts out from downtown Erie | | | | You can meander up and down the blocks, poking |
| into the lake, protecting the harbor and serving as a | | | | your head into any number of shops, bars, or coffee |
| naturalist's paradise. With many items on our | | | | houses. Sherlocks Park Place at 5th and State offers |
| sightseeing agenda, we settled into the aptly named | | | | live music, or opt for live theatre at the Erie |
| Erie Lighthouse Inn for a three night stay. | | | | Playhouse on 10th Street. For shopping, there's |
| Arriving at lunch time, the waterfront beckoned. We | | | | Accents By The Bay on 5th Street, and Erie's family |
| opted for lunch at the Sloppy Duck Saloon, on | | | | owned treasure, Kraus Department Store on Parade |
| Bayfront Parkway with the perfect view of Erie Bay | | | | Street, in business since 1886. |
| and Presque Isle. Two plates of steamed mussels, | | | | Wineries: Day Two |
| the sauteed calamari, and a lake perch sandwich put | | | | Morning brought another gorgeous day, ideal for wine |
| us in the right frame of mind to explore nearby | | | | touring. Three were in store for the day, but first we |
| Presque Isle State Park. | | | | spent a few hours at the Tom Ridge Environmental |
| Presque Isle State Park, a French term meaning | | | | Center at the gateway to Presque Isle. |
| "almost" an island, extends almost 7 miles into Lake | | | | This "green" environmental center, free to the public, |
| Erie. We opted for a 90 minute boat cruise, allowing | | | | is designed to educate visitors about Presque Isle and |
| us to encompass the park and enjoy Lake Erie and | | | | other important environmental issues. The TREC is an |
| Erie Bay from the water. If you're a swimmer or | | | | interactive experience, with an orientation film |
| sunbather, you've got 13 beaches to choose from | | | | introducing visitors to the natural wonder that is |
| and a recommendation from Conde Nast Traveler | | | | Presque Isle. |
| magazine for good measure. Hiking, canoeing, | | | | Plan for a few hours at the TREC. There's a great |
| picnicking, and bird watching are other readily available | | | | nature shop and gallery, cafe, educational exhibits, |
| options. Designated a National Natural Landmark, | | | | and much more. We truly came to appreciate the |
| Presque Isle welcomes more than 4 million visitors a | | | | efforts of various environmental agencies housed |
| year. Top it off with a visit to the top of the | | | | here, and learning more about beautiful Presque Isle. |
| waterfront Bicentennial Tower, affording 360 degree | | | | After a quick bite at TREC's Sunset Cafe, it was off |
| views of Lake Erie, Presque Isle, and downtown Erie. | | | | to North East to visit the remaining three wineries on |
| Do make a point to visit here! | | | | the Pennsylvania portion of the Chautauqua Lake Erie |
| Approaching late afternoon, it was time to get | | | | Wine Trail. |
| reaquainted with the city of Erie. First stop = Erie | | | | First stop was Heritage Wine Cellars, with a history |
| Brewing Company, a local microbrewer offering | | | | as long as the rows of grape vines proliferating this |
| tastings Fridays and Saturdays 3-6 p.m. You can find | | | | area. This family farm and winery is run by 6th |
| their beers in several states surrounding Pennsylvania. | | | | generation Bostwick family members, whose |
| We recommend their flagship brew, Railbender Ale, | | | | ancestors purchased their 100 acre fruit farm in 1805. |
| along with the summery Sunshine Wit and the hoppy | | | | Open as a winery since 1976, the vineyard is largely |
| and citrusy Misery Bay Pale Ale. | | | | Concord grapes, most of which are used for juice. |
| Downtown Erie | | | | Some are used in wine as well, so do plan a stop |
| What a pleasant surprise to rediscover downtown | | | | here to taste some of the freshest clean wines on |
| Erie! Not only has the harborfront area been | | | | this wine trail. |
| revitalized, but the adjacent downtown district now | | | | We felt the reds starred here. In particular, we liked |
| offers all kinds of shops, restaurants, and | | | | Solebury Red, a unique semi dry red with a light |
| performance venues. Downtown Erie is reasonably | | | | berry fruity finish. Just as enjoyable was the Blush, an |
| compact and very walkable, and parking is a breeze. | | | | easy drinker perfect for picnics or happy hour. If |
| Roughly 14 blocks in length and 4 blocks wide, | | | | you're in Erie and can't get to the winery, you can |
| downtown Erie hosts frequent block parties and is | | | | buy Heritage wines at the Millcreek Mall, the largest |
| the center of area entertainment options. | | | | shopping mall in the area. |
| Erie's State Street is the main downtown | | | | Next up was Arrowhead Wine Cellars. Owners Nick |
| thoroughfare, bisecting the downtown from the | | | | and Kathy Mobilia harvest most of the wine making |
| bayfront south. Most of the shops, taverns, | | | | grapes themselves, directly from their 250 acre North |
| restaurants, and coffee houses are on or near State | | | | East farm. This is truly a destination, with a large gift |
| Street. Stroll the area as we did, and pop in | | | | shop with all sorts of interesting items, and a fruit |
| wherever strikes your fancy. | | | | stand next door. A rich Chardonnay, crisp Pinot Grigio, |
| Our first night's dinner was at the highly enjoyable | | | | and a fresh and sweet Concord were among several |
| Plymouth Tavern, a downtown mainstay for 35 | | | | we tasted. Be sure to stop at the fruit stand - it's |
| years. Conveniently located at 11th and State, this | | | | ideal for a mid afternoon snack. |
| friendly local place serves up some of the best | | | | Last but certainly not least in this journey was Mazza |
| chicken wings we've tasted. Their impressive beer list | | | | Vineyards. Since 1973, the Mazza family has proudly |
| will have you pondering what to try next, but don't | | | | produced some of the best Germanic style wines |
| overlook the food menu. There are food and drink | | | | anywhere. Upon arrival, you'll be greeted inside the |
| specials every night, and plenty to choose from. | | | | beautiful Mediterranean style main building, where you |
| When in doubt, opt for any of the deli sandwiches or | | | | can opt for a tour or proceed to the tasting area or |
| our favorite, the Chicken Philly, stuffed with grilled | | | | gift shop. |
| chicken, sauteed onions, and melted provolone. | | | | This evolving winery produces not only a full range of |
| After a few more stops throughout the evening, it | | | | reds, whites, and fruit wines, but specialty sherrys |
| was time to get refreshed for our next day's | | | | and ports as well. We opted for the Riesling, upon a |
| agenda, filled with Erie area attractions and winery | | | | recommendation from a BrewErie waitress. And it's |
| visits. | | | | fantastic, with fruity overtones and pleasantly crisp |
| The next morning after breakfast, we opted for a | | | | finish. The Port, aged in bourbon barrels, has delicious |
| few hours at the Erie Zoo and Botanical Gardens. | | | | fruit flavors (we sensed plum and dark cherry). We |
| This combination of zoo and gardens is a great idea, | | | | also took home a few bottles of Country White, a |
| and something more cities should consider. Wander | | | | pleasant and mildly sweet white blend. |
| around this 15 acre park and view over 400 animals | | | | Final Touches |
| and thousands of plants. If you're lucky, your visit will | | | | After leaving Mazza Vineyards, we followed another |
| coincide with one of the zoo's many educational | | | | tip to visit The Kelly Hotel for happy hour and to rest |
| programs designed to let visitors get up close and | | | | our feet. Once a hotel in years past, The Kelly Hotel |
| personal with the animals. Check their website for | | | | is an old roadhouse structure with a warm welcoming |
| more details. | | | | restaurant inside. It's actually just over the border in |
| Wineries of the Chautauqua Wine Trail: Day One | | | | New York, with a charming old bar and lots of |
| From the zoo, it's a short 15 mile drive east to the | | | | friendly people. We wished we'd arrived at dinner |
| beautiful Victorian themed town of North East, home | | | | time, as the menu looked marvelous, but alas it was |
| to 5 wineries on the Pennsylvania portion of the trail. | | | | just a happy hour snack of chicken wings and a cold |
| As you enter North East, you'll notice and even catch | | | | beer on draft. This is an "in the know" place to stop, |
| the fragrance of thousands upon thousands of grape | | | | with hardwood floors throughout and a great old |
| vines. Agriculture and grape growing are a source of | | | | tavern feel. |
| community pride here. In fact, Welch's Grape | | | | Finally, we headed back to Erie, anxious to create |
| Company has a production plant in North East, and | | | | one more memory on the bayfront. There's no |
| various festivals celebrate the grape and other crops. | | | | better place to do so than Smugglers Wharf. Simply |
| The rolling terrain and proximity to Lake Erie make | | | | put, this is a great restaurant with a great view. |
| this an ideal grape growing climate. | | | | There's a lively, casual crowd and the food is as good |
| In our sights for the afternoon were two of | | | | as the bayfront and Lake Erie view. We opted for |
| Pennsylvania's oldest wineries, Penn Shore Vineyards | | | | lake perch and steamed mussels, both perfectly |
| and Presque Isle Wine Cellars. | | | | prepared and served with a smile. |
| Penn Shore Vineyards, open since 1970, is one of the | | | | And we suppose that's a perfect way to close this |
| first wineries established in Pennsylvania. It's a big, | | | | travelogue. Everywhere we went in Erie, we were |
| inviting place that offers tours to a few hundred | | | | greeted with a smile. Take the time to visit this |
| people daily. The tour takes you through the wine | | | | friendly city and enjoy all the area has to offer. |
| cellars, bottling operation, and finally the tasting room. | | | | Whether you're there for wine travel or not, we're |
| Penn Shore offers all sorts of approachable wines, | | | | certain you'll enjoy your stay. |
| and a few surprises as well. There's a full line of reds, | | | | |
